With the warmer weather and favorable conditions of summer finally here, climbers from across the nation are preparing to strap on their crampons and head up America's tallest mountain.

Dozens of climbers have already scaled Alaska’s Denali mountain, otherwise known as Mount McKinley, and more than 1,000 have registered to make the ascent in the coming months.

The best time to tackle the 20,310ft (6,190m) mountain is generally considered to be between mid-May and early July, when warmer temperatures and reduced wind provide the best conditions for climbing.

Even in the peak season, climbers face a harrowing journey to the summit and have to overcome steep ice climbing sections and highly crevassed glacier travel. There are also multiple geo-hazardous risks, including the potential for violent landslides, rockfalls, and earthquakes. Avalanches alone have killed more than 40 people on the mountain in the past 50 years.

Among those on Denali so far this season was American skier Anna Demonte, who became the fastest woman to ski the 15,766ft (4,806m) Mont Blanc mountain this time last year.

Demonte was attempting to break the women's fastest known time (FKT) skiing record of 7 hours and 29 minutes, but was forced to abandon her attempt after suffering a knee injury just above base camp. She fell at about 16,404ft (5,000m) and tore her MCL (medial collateral ligament), making it impossible to continue the attempt.

America's tallest mountain was the subject of controversy earlier this year, when newly elected President Trump reversed an order that recognized its indigenous name, Denali, in favor of its previous official moniker, Mount McKinley.

The peak was named in 1896 after then-President-elect William McKinley, who never visited his namesake or even the state of Alaska, nor did he have any cultural connection to the area.

President Barack Obama changed the name from Mount McKinley to Denali in 2015 after more than 40 years of campaigning by Native Alaskans, who say the name Denali has been in use for more than 10,000 years.

Recognizing the previous name was one of President Trump's first actions in office, and spurred widespread criticism from the Alaskan community.

The mountain is now officially known as McKinley in the US, but other countries aren't obliged to recognize the new name.

“I strongly disagree with the President’s decision on Denali,” said Alaskan Senator Lisa Murkowski at the time in a post on X.

“Our nation’s tallest mountain, which has been called Denali for thousands of years, must continue to be known by the rightful name bestowed by Alaska’s Koyukon Athabascans, who have stewarded the land since time immemorial.”

• The best climbing shoes: get a grip both indoors and out
• The best ice axes: for tackling frozen terrain

Skiers taking part in the prestigious Mezzalama Trophy ski-mountaineering race received the fright of their lives when a small passenger plane dived towards them and narrowly avoided a collision.

A video captured by alpinist Luca Calzone shows the small aircraft landing on the Sesia Pass section of the 15,203ft (4,634m) Monte Rosa Massif before taking an unexpected turn and bombing through a line of skiers just before it took off again.

No one was injured in the incident.

The pilot, who could potentially be held criminally responsible and lose his license, is now under investigation by the Federal Office of Civil Aviation (FOCA).

A FOCA spokesperson told the Keystone-ATS news agency that it had opened proceedings to "clarify the facts and take appropriate measures."

The pilot has since apologized to skiers and fellow pilots for what he describes as a "serious error of judgement."

In a letter published by Italian and Swiss media, the unnamed pilot said: “I am deeply sorry for the community that I love more than anything else. I hope this never happens to any of you."

The Geneva Aéroclub, which owns the aircraft, has confirmed that the pilot reported the incident to authorities on the same day.

The Mezzalama Trophy is the third-highest ski-mountaineering race in the world. It pits 1,000 of the world's best racers against each other over 28 miles (45km) of unforgiving mountain terrain.

Skiers gain more than 10,738ft (3,272m) of total elevation and tackle precarious ridges, ice climbs, and descents as they cross the Monte Rosa massif. The event is part of the annual ISMF Long Distance World Cup, which decides the world's best ski-mountaineers.

• The best ice axes: for tackling frozen terrain
• The best cross country skis: classic, skate and Nordic skis for exploring the snowy backcountry

If it moves, give it an electric power assist seems to be the trend right now. After e-cars, e-buses, e-vans, e-planes, e-bikes, e-scooters, e-snowboards, e-skates and presumably many others we can’t remember (has anyone created e-trekking poles yet?).

Now we have e-skis. And they don’t even need snow. 

Hang on, doesn’t that just make the fancy, oversized e-skates? The French company that created them doesn’t think so. SKWHEEL reckons that the SKWHEEL-ONE – which it claims is the world’s first true electric ski – will give you an authentic skiing experience on dry land, with speeds of up to 50mph (on private land; there’s a speed limiter for elsewhere).

The SKWHEEL-ONE is currently being crowdfunding on Indiegogo and has already reached 148% of its goal. Preorders are available now and the company predicts that the SKWHEEL-ONE will go into production in April with deliveries starting by June.

Each of the skis is powered by a four-wheel drive system with 600 watts per motor, for 2,400 watts of total power combined. They can tackle urban asphalt, mountain trails or sandy beaches. A single charge will last 18 miles, but if you want to ski for longer the Lithium-ion batteries are easily swappable. Depleted batteries can be recharged in only two hours.

There are four different speeds and electronic braking controlled by what’s best described as a handheld remote with an LED screen. Mechanical braking is also built in for reliable emergency stops and controlled, stable deceleration. They even have front and rear lights.

The handle-shaped remote control also has a telescopic handle you can plug into the skis so that you can pull them along like a wheelie suitcase.

With a composite and carbon fiber chassis for flexibility and strength, the SKWHEEL-ONE weighs 27.5lb. 

According to SKWHEEL, the product’s innovative swivel 175mm inflatable tires deliver authentic glide and the ability to carve with precision and fluidity on any surface, accurately mimicking what it feels like to ski on snow (although we await the reviews from actual skiers to see how far that claim holds true – though they’re probably going to be great fun however authentic the experience).

A snowboard-inspired binding system ensures an excellent foothold for total control and can be worn with regular shoes.

Available from SKWHEEL’s own website the launch price is a discounted $1,842 (US) / €1,700 (Europe).

• The best women’s winter boots: for comfort and warmth in the snow

Rossignol OT 65 Positrack: first impressions

The design of the Rossignol OT 65 Positrack boasts wide dimensions, plenty of sidecut and partial metal edges, all of which enhance this ski’s stability and edge control when you’re off-trail in natural snow. But is that enough to place it amongst the best cross country skis on the market?

One feature that certainly makes it a contender is that Rossignol have deliberately built this ski shorter than most to make it more accessible to a greater number of skiers (see also: what size cross country skis do I need? Calculate the best length for you). And they also gave it a lot of torsional rigidity and flex from tip to tail, to give skiers confidence. It’s easy to turn and intuitive to maneuver through glades, and across powdery slopes. The ski also comes with a binding plate which is always handy.

Rossignol OT 65 Positrack: on the slopes

If you’re looking for one ski that a) is heaps of fun in a lot of conditions; b) you can wear to tow a sled to a backcountry hut; c) you can zoom around your nearest groomed Nordic network in; or d) won’t be overwhelmed by some backcountry adventures – then the Rossignol OT 65 Positrack ticks all those boxes.

It has metal edges in the middle of the underside of the ski, which, on test, I found didn’t interfere with tracked skiing, but they did give me an edge that I could use to bite into form snow when I wasn’t in a track.

The waxless, fish-scale base has good grip and glide in all snow conditions, and there’s no prep required to get out on snow, so you have no excuses to stay home.

• How Advnture tests products

Madshus Fjelltech M50 Skin Skis: first impressions 

With a waist width of 50mm (there’s a clue in the name) the Madshus Fjelltech M50 ski is a fast cruiser on groomed Nordic tracks, but it’s also lots of fun to explore with, making it one of the best cross country skis around for people who like to mix it up when they’re in the hills during winter.

A lightweight classic touring ski for using in and out of the tracks, the Madshus Fjelltech M50 uses integrated mohair and nylon skins for grip and three-quarter-length steel edges for control.

The Fjelltech M50 now comes with a pre-installed binding plate for tool-free set up. The ski is built on a farmed paulownia wood core wrapped in fiberglass and carbon fiber, which adds lateral stability and helps the ski feel more stable.

Madshus Fjelltech M50 Skin Skis: on the slopes

I used the Madshus Fjelltech M50 Skin Skis to explore all the trails at my local ski area, including an unmaintained one that circumnavigates a mountain, and I always came back with a big smile. 

The skin has good grip in a variety of conditions. And, although they are a little light duty, I used the Fjelltech M50s to sled gear into a backcountry hut on mellow terrain, and they got the job done surprisingly well. 

They were also light enough that when I needed to herringbone uphill it wasn’t exhausting. These skis glide every bit as well as they grip, and because they’re narrow, I was able to move fast through the wintery landscape. But, all that said, when it was icy on downhills I couldn’t help wishing they had full edges go give them more stopping power.

• How Advnture tests products

Rossignol R-Skin Ultra: first impressions

Made for fitness skiers and for training, the Rossignol R-Skin Ultra (available direct from Rossignol) is an agile classic ski for kicking and gliding in all conditions, with no waxing required. It truly does stake its claim as one of the best cross country skis out there.

Built-in mohair inserts give this ski grip to propel you forward. And it comes with a pre-installed binding plate that lets the ski flex naturally for the best experience on snow (learn more about cross country ski bindings here).

The Rossignol R-Skin Ultra boasts superb snow feel, excellent precision and good glide. It also has a low barrier to entry. Whether you’re an athletic person looking for a new cardio activity, or a skier who wants to hit the trails without having to prep your skis, this design delivers.

Rossignol R-Skin Ultra: on the slopes

Sometimes waxing can be the biggest barrier to hitting the snow on cross country skis, but the Rossignol R-Skin Ultras will kick and glide for around 100 to 150 days before you need to replace the mohair. 

In the track, they’re precise and powerful, with a similar lightweight honeycomb construction core that you will typically find in race skis, but more reasonably priced. The cap is constructed with multidirectional fiberglass that balances flex and torsional rigidity from tip to tail. This construction kept me in control when the snow was soft, icy and everything in between. 

• How Advnture tests products

Madshus Panorama M68: first impressions

For its versatility and capability across a range of terrain types, we rate the Madshus Panorama M68 (available direct from Madshus) as one of the best cross country skis available today.

Adventurously designed and built to go beyond the confines of groomed trails, the Madshus Panorama M68 is a playful ski that offers an open invitation to go exploring.

A wider tip, which is also called the 'shovel', helps this ski stay afloat in deeper snow. It’s well-suited to a three-pin binding and a more robust boot for maximum maneuverability in variable terrain.

The fish scale waxless base gives this ski confidence-inspiring grip on flats and climbs, and actively encourages carving on your descents. Full-length steel edges provide control.

Madshus Panorama M68 Skis: on the slopes

I wore these Madshus Panorama M68s to carry gear to a backcountry hut, to cross a mellow mountain pass between Nordic ski areas and for following animal tracks through the wintery landscape; they’re made to cover distance over a variety of terrain. 

Thanks to their above-average width, they climb better than skis made for the track. The full-length, metal sidecut let me carve playful turns on descents, whether I was lapping a snowy meadow, or darting between birch trees in a powdery glade. 

An old school teleboot helps you get the most fun out of this ski (see also: types of cross country ski boots: what’s the difference?), and on extended climbs I sometimes added kick skins for extra grip. It’s poppy and playful thanks to the interlocking strands of fiberglass and carbon fiber that wrap the ski’s core. This is also what gives the Panorama M68 stability and strength, while keeping it light and lively. 

Don’t expect this ski to give you the carvability and control of an alpine touring ski, but use it for local adventures and scouting new lines and you’ll enjoy it.

• How Advnture tests products

Fischer Spider 62 Crown Xtralite: first impressions 

If you’re a cross country skier looking for one ski that does it all, there are very few better choices than the Fischer Spider 62 Crown Xtralite – one of the best cross country skis currently available. 

A classic ski for use on- or off-track, the Fischer Spider 62 Crown Xtralite has full-length metal edges for increased turnability and control. It’s also an ideal ski for exploring mellow, untracked terrain. 

The ski’s air-channeled wooden core makes the Spider 62 Crown Xtralite stable when you’re descending. It’s durable, too, so you can expect to get many years of use out of these skis, and the core – combined with metal edges – gives grip and control, whether you’re in the track or out. 

Fischer Spider 62 Crown Xtralite: on the slopes

In theory, the Fischer Spider 62 Crown Xtralite is designed for beginner and/or intermediate skiers, but having tested it, I think it’s fun to ski regardless of your experience. 

On test I found the underfoot waxless fish-scale pattern gripped during the uphills without compromising glide on flats and downs. 

When I paired this ski with a race boot, it was efficient in a groomed track. And equally, when I paired it with a backcounty boot, I skied to a friend’s yurt on a combination of tracked and untracked trails for a weekend in the woods. 

I mounted the Spider 62 Crown Xtralite with Fischer Control IFP Step-In bindings. And because the skis come with a pre-installed plate, installing these bindings was a tool-free exercise, which was a huge win from my perspective. 

Whether you’re an enthusiast looking to get into Nordic skiing, or a skier who wants exercise, or a snow slider who won’t be confined by their local network’s grooming, this is the ski for you. 

• How Advnture tests products

Fischer RCS Skate Plus: first impressions 

One of the best cross country skis on the market, the Fischer RCS Skate Plus – a World Cup race ski – has a core that that’s 80% air, which explains the ski’s svelte weight. But the same core is also wrapped with a torsion-free and break-resistant cap, supplying a decent dose of durability.

When you’re racing, every single second and each energy saving element – no matter how small – matters. With this in mind, the Fischer RCS Skate Plus was recently redesigned. The new iteration boasts a lower and shorter tip, which lowers its swing weight to reduce the effort it takes to make each stride, effectively making it easier to ski cross country.

The RCS Skate Plus – which, as the name suggests, is designed with skate skiing in mind – is built with Fischer's Cold Base Bonding, which optimizes the diamond-ground ski base for the highest level of wax absorption in order to give this ski the best glide. Each handmade ski is then computer analyzed to make sure it closely matches its partner ski, and both skis are factory tuned to best match each other’s residual tension and camber pressure. 

Fischer RCS Skate Plus: on the slopes

Fisher’s RCS Skate Plus is shaped like an arrow, and slices through snow with the speed and trajectory of a crossbow bolt, with stability and power to boot. Fischer have designed this ski with camber and snow contact points that are aggressively spaced for balance and control, and to enable powerful kicking on hard snow. 

The shorter, lighter tip makes these skis noticeably more user friendly than other skate skis, whether you are racing hard or just out for a high-heart-rate pleasure ski, which is how I mostly used them during testing. 

The skis come pre-waxed, with an infrared preparation that protects the bases from oxidation, and gives them great glide and climbing ability.

• How Advnture tests products

Atomic Redster C9 Carbon Skintec: first impressions 

Made for racing and high-performance training, the Atomic Redster C9 Carbon Skintec (available direct from Atomic Skis) is a light and stiff carbon fiber ski with a sidecut designed for speed. Which are just some of the reasons why it scores highly in our best cross country skis buying guide.

The Redster C9 Carbon Skintec uses a sintered World Cup base with a special additive for glide and mohair strips for grip, and this combination creates a ski that is lightning fast on snow (so when it comes to choosing cross country skis these are not clearly not recommended for beginners).

The Redster C9 uses Atomic’s featherlight core reinforced with carbon fiber to give this ski an exceptional power-to-weight ratio.

Atomic Redster C9 Carbon Skintec: on the slopes

Sometimes carbon skis just feel stiff. This one feels energetic. And every bit of drive I put into it was noticeably translated into positive forward momentum. 

The bonded plate and binding system make your cross country ski boots and the skis feel like one, with no energy wasted whatsoever. However, I did find that mounting the binding isn’t as straightforward as it is on other skis with pre-installed plates. 

Because snow temperature changes, I love that this ski’s Easy Skin Exchange lets me change skins in a matter of seconds, without the need for tools. This feature lets racers and high-level skiers choose the right skin for the day minutes before heading out, with no waxing required. And the pure mohair strips give best-in-class grip.

• How Advnture tests products

The most important thing about choosing the best cross country skis is knowing what you want to use them for. Because cross country skiing is a term that encompasses a wide range of snow-sliding activities, from kicking and gliding on waxed or waxless skinny skis on a groomed track, to skate skiing on groomed paths, exploring unmaintained trails and bushwhacking through the woods to carve powdery turns.

What all forms of cross country skiing have in common, though, is the way your boot attaches to your ski. Unlike with alpine skiing, where your toes and heels are locked onto the ski with an alpine binding, with cross country skiing your boots are attached to your ski at the toes only.

Scroll down to the bottom of this article for more details on the differences between classic, skate, and touring skis, or read on for our top recommendations.

The best cross country skis

For skiers looking for one ski that does it all, there’s no better choice. A classic ski for use on or off-track, Fischer’s Spider 62 Crown Xtralite has full-length metal edges for turnability and control. It’s an ideal ski for mellow, untracked exploring. The ski’s air-channeled wood core makes the Spider 62 Crown Xtralite stable when you’re descending. It’s durable, so you can plan to get many years of use out of these skis, and the core combined with metal edges give grip and control whether you’re in the track or out.

These skis are made for beginner / intermediate skiers, but they’re fun to ski regardless of your experience. On test we found the underfoot waxless fish-scale pattern gripped on uphills without compromising glide on flats and downs. And when paired with a race boot, these skis were efficient in a groomed track.

Wide, short, metal-edged skis with a permanent skin on the bottom, the Altai Hoks are made for finding your own adventure in the woods, meadows and anywhere else you want to go. Hok (pronounced hawk) is the word used for ski by the Tuwa people in the Altai Mountains.

They combine the turnability and float of a backcountry touring ski with the ease and convenience of a waxless Nordic ski. They can be mounted with either a universal binding that can be used with any winter boot, or with a 75mm three-pin binding for better performance.

An adapter plate makes these compatible with Rottefella NNN BC and Solomon BC bindings. Because of the width of the ski, it climbs better than most other waxless Nordic skis.

The Hok comes in three sizes: 125cm, 145cm, and a kids’ version – the Balla Hok – which is 99cm. The 145cm version is best for skiers who scout the woods for untracked downhills; it has the most float and glide. The 125cm version is more maneuverable (it’s practically a snowshoe substitute) and it’s easier to use with a light boot or universal binding.

Read our full Altai Hok review

If you’re looking for one ski that’s fun in a lot of conditions; that you can wear to tow a sled into a backcountry hut; that you can zoom around your nearest groomed Nordic network on; and that won’t be overwhelmed by some backcountry adventures, then this is a great choice.

The Rossignol OT 65 bridges the gap between off-trail skiing and backcountry touring. Wide dimensions, sidecut and partial metal edges enhance this ski’s stability and edge control when you’re off-trail in natural snow. Rossignol built this ski shorter to make it more accessible to more skiers. And they gave it a lot of torsional rigidity and flex from tip to tail to give skiers confidence. It’s easy to turn and intuitive to maneuvre through glades and across powdery slopes. The ski incomes with a binding plate.

A light and stiff carbon fiber ski with a sidecut designed for speed, Atomic’s Redster C9 Carbon Skintec is the best cross countrry ski for racing and high-performance training. The ski uses a sintered World Cup base with a special additive for glide and mohair strips for grip. The combo creates a ski that’s lightning fast on snow.

The Redster C9 uses Atomic’s featherlight core reinforced with carbon fiber to give this ski exceptional power-to-weight. Sometimes carbon skis just feel stiff. This one feels energetic.

Snow temperature changes, and our expert tester loved that this ski’s Easy Skin Exchange allows you to change skins in seconds without tools – a feature that lets racers and high level skiers choose the right skin for the day minutes before heading out, with no waxing required. And the pure mohair strips gave best-in-class grip.

This World Cup race ski was recently redesigned with a lower and shorter tip that reduces its swing weight to minimize the effort it takes to make each stride, making it easier to ski. Because, when you’re racing, every second and every bit of energy saving matters.

This is an ultralight, agile, stable ski (the core is 80% air) and it is Fischer’s top performer. It’s built with Cold Base Bonding, which optimizes the diamond ground ski base for the highest level of wax absorption in order to give this ski the best glide.

The core is wrapped with a torsion-free and break-resistant cap for durability. Then each handmade ski is computer-analyzed to make sure it closely matches its partner ski, and both skis are factory tuned to best match each other’s residual tension and camber pressure.

These skis come pre-waxed with an infrared preparation that protects the bases from oxidation, and gives them great glide and climbing ability.

A lightweight classic touring ski for skiing in and out of the tracks, the Madshus Fjelltech M50 uses integrated mohair and nylon skins for grip and three-quarter-length steel edges for control. The 50mm waist ski is a fast cruiser on groomed Nordic tracks, but it’s also a fun ski to explore with. The ski now comes with a pre-installed binding plate for tool-free set up. The ski is built on a farmed Paulownia wood core wrapped in fiberglass and carbon fiber that help the ski feel more stable.

On test we found that this ski glided as well as it gripped, and because it's narrow, you can move fast through the wintery landscape. But, when it’s icy, we would have liked full metal edges for more stopping power on downhills.

A ski for exploring in snow from hardpacked to deep, the Madshus Panorama M78is a ticket to backcountry fun, letting you carve powdery turns in mellow terrain.

A wider tip, which is also called the shovel, helps this ski stay afloat in deeper snow. It’s well suited to a three-pin binding and a more robust boot for maximum maneuverability in variable terrain. The fischscale waxless base gives this ski confidence-inspiring grip on flats and climbs while the progressive sidecut facilitates carving on descents.

Full-length steel edges provide control. Don’t expect this ski to give you the carvability and control of an alpine touring skis, but do use it for local adventures, and scouting new lines. It’s poppy and playful thanks to the interlocking strands of fiberglass and carbon fiber that wrap the ski’s core. That’s also what gives this ski stability and strength while keeping it light and lively, and makes it the best cross country ski for multi-day adventures.

Made for fitness skiers and for training, Rossignol’s R-Skin Ultra is an agile classic ski for kicking and gliding in all conditions, no waxing required.

Built-in mohair inserts give this ski grip to propel you forward. And it comes with a pre-installed binding plate that lets the ski flex naturally for the best experience on snow.

Rossignol’s R-Skin Ultra has superb snow feel, excellent precision and good glide. It also has a low barrier to entry. Whether you’re an athletic person looking for a new cardio activity, or a skier who wants to hit the trails without having to prep your skis, this ski delivers.

How we tested the best cross country skis

All of the cross country and Nordic skis featured here have been extensively tested by our highly experienced winter gear reviewer, who put them through their paces on both groomed and ungroomed terrain in the great white hills of North America and Norway, the home of Nordic skiing. Each set of skis was then assessed against a set of criteria ranging from the comfort of the bindings to the performance quality of the skis themselves.

For more details, see how Advnture tests products.

Classic, skate, and touring skis

Most cross country skis are narrow. A lot of cross country skiing is done on groomed tracks in Nordic skiing areas. Classic skis, used to stride forward by kicking and gliding, are typically 68mm or narrower, and that’s the width of most groomed skis tracks. Classic skis have minimal sidecut to help you track and glide straight, which is to say that the front, back and middle of the ski are all about the same width. Classic skis most often have a waxless, waxable or mohair base.

Skate skis, made for gliding along the snow using the same motion as ice skating, are typically light and often between 41mm and 45mm wide. Like classic skis designed to be used in a groomed track, they have little sidecut.

Some classic skis have metal edges for control outside the track, and a wider profile with more pronounced sidecut. Those skis are made for use in ungroomed snow. If you want a ski for use both with and without groomed tracks, buy some that are 68mm or narrower. If you want skis for touring, exploring and point-to-point off-piste skiing, opt for wider skis with metal edges and more sidecut, which facilitates turning.

Race skis are narrower than those intended for recreational skiing, because the less amount of ski you have making contact with the snow, the faster you will go. Many race skis are under 60mm, and most have ultralight construction, often using carbon fiber and extremely light materials in the core.

Choosing the best cross country skis for you

As we have seen, cross country skis come in many shapes and sizes. The best cross country skis for you are the ones that most suit your preferred form of cross country skiing, whether that’s skate style, classic skiing on groomed trails or point-to-point touring and exploring in the backcountry. Beyond that, the following factors are also important considerations.

Traction

Some cross country skis use a waxless base with and in-molded fish scale or similar patterns that bite into the snow for traction on climbs. Skate skis and waxable classic skis grip the snow with wax that’s optimized for the day’s snow temperatures. Classic race skis either have a waxable base or mohair straps for traction. The mohair strips work like “skins” on backcountry touring skis. The hairs glide forward then stick into the snow to prevent you from siding backwards.

Length

Buy skis based on your weight and ability. Longer skis will glide more quickly, and they’re better for more experiences skiers; shorter skis are easier to control, and more maneuverable in tight terrain, like trees.

Width and edging

Wider skis will be more stable. Metal edges assist with stopping, and can also help with carving turns. Consider a wider cross country ski with metal edges if you’re likely to be venturing beyond the groomed tracks.

Wax

Waxless skis are good for grab-and-go adventures, while waxed skis require some thought and knowledge, as you need to apply the right wax to match the temperature of the snow (it’s a fine art).

More skis = more fun

If you don’t want to have to choose between skiing groomed or ungroomed terrain, there are skis available that are fun in tracks as well as being a blast in the woods. Alternatively, if you get out on the white stuff regularly, there is a compelling argument for having multiple pairs of skis, so you always have the right tool for the job and the day’s conditions.

What to do with your old skis

Tossing your old skis into landfill would be a real shame. If they're still in decent condition, you could donate or sell them, and maybe recoup a little of the cost of your replacements.

If your skis are no longer snow-worthy, there's a surprising number of companies that will accept them for upcycling into funky furniture, such as Green Mountain Ski Furniture in Vermont, and SkiChair in Massachusetts. Try searching for ski upcycling projects in your area to see what's available.

• The best men’s ski pants: leg protection for skiing and boarding

Altai Hok: first impressions 

So why Altai Hok? Well, Hok, which is pronounced 'hawk', is the word for ski used by the Tuwa people who live, and ski, in the Altai Mountains. So they should know a thing or two about crafting the best cross country skis.

A wide, short, metal-edged ski with a permanent skin on the bottom, Altai’s Hoks (available direct from Altai Skis) are made for finding your own adventure in the woods, meadows and anywhere else you want to go.

They provide the turnability and float of a backcountry touring ski with the ease and convenience of a waxless Nordic ski (see also: Choosing cross country skis). They can be mounted with either a universal binding that can be used with any winter boot, or with a 75mm three-pin binding for better performance. An adapter plate makes these compatible with Rottefella NNN BC and Solomon BC bindings.

Because of the width of the ski, it climbs better than most other waxless Nordic skis. The Hok comes in three sizes: 125 cm, 145 cm, and a kids’ version, the Balla Hok, which is 99cm. The 145 version is best for skiers who scout the woods for untracked downhills; it has the most float and glide. The 125 is more maneuverable (it’s practically a snowshoe substitute) and it’s easier to ski with a light boot or universal binding.

Altai Hok: on the slopes

I’m lucky enough to own a lot of skis, and these are the ones I use the most. I wear the Hoks to cruise around the woods behind my house in winter to exercise the dogs. And I wear them to ski mountain bike trails all through the white season. 

The Hoks are skis that facilitate all sorts of adventures (so make sure you know your cross country skiing techniques for all types of terrain and snow). They make slopes that would be boring on a full alpine touring ski loads of fun, but they’ve got more stability and better uphill climbing capabilities than other Nordic skis. They can also go anywhere, and they’re fun even when there’s little snow on the ground. 

• How Advnture tests products

There’s snow in the forecast, you’ve waxed your skis, picked out a new pair of ski goggles and hauled your ski jacket out of storage (see our guides to the best ski jackets for men and ski jackets for women if yours needs replacing). And that’s not the half of it. By nature, skiing involves a lot of gear – boots, poles, a helmet and lots of bulky clothes. Chances are, you live a car ride away from the nearest resort or mountain and that’s if you’re really lucky. So in order to take advantage of all that fresh snow, you need to figure out how to get your gear to the mountain, and that can be tricky, especially if you have a smaller car. Clearly, you don’t want to pay for rentals when you have your own gear, so check out these three good options for how to transport skis so you can make your best turns on the hill.

1. Inside your car

Transporting your skis inside your car is the most cost-effective and fuel efficient way to get them to the slopes, and it usually keeps your skis more secure than other options. We won’t lie, it’s easier done when you have less passengers and other gear in your car, and when you drive a larger vehicle such as a truck or SUV, however you can still fit skis in a hatchback or sedan too so long as you know how.

If you do drive an SUV, your skis might simply fit in the trunk leaning up against the back seats. With a small-to-medium sized vehicle, it’s ideal if you can fold down the back seats and slide your skis in so that the tips rest in the center console between the two front seats. If you’re driving alone, you may also be able to fit your skis into the front diagonally so that the tails sit in the passenger footwell and the tips rest on the headrest of the back seat. This leaves your backseat and trunk available for other gear. Always strap your skis together and make sure they’re secure so that they can’t dislodge and interfere with your driving. 

Of course, it’s a good idea to check your skis fit inside your car before you actually want to go skiing, but this option keeps your skis protected from dirt that kicks up from the road, and the rusting influence of the elements. To keep them even better protected, you can place them inside a ski bag before packing them up (this way you’ll have what you need if you ever have to fly with your skis, too).

2. Roof rack 

Let’s say you’re also transporting luggage and other people and there’s absolutely no way any skis are fitting inside your car – what now? Well, depending on what kind of car you have, you can buy a roof rack that will hold your skis while you drive. Roof racks can mount onto the bars on the roof of your car, or attach via magnets or ball mountains. Not all roof racks work with all cars, but if you have bars, you can probably find something quite easily.

The advantages of roof racks are that they are reasonably inexpensive, usually pretty easy to use and they’re easy to store if you want to remove them, but they do have some real disadvantages too. If they’re mounted properly, they won’t cause any damage to your car, but they won’t protect your skis from rusting or all the grime that gets kicked up when you’re driving on grit-covered roads, which means your skis might need a good clean when you get to the slopes, and again when you return home. Annoying. 

They can also make your skis quite easy to steal if you’re leaving them on your vehicle for any length of time, and of course everyone can see your skis which may make them more tantalizing to the sticky-fingered. So, if you have a really nice pair of skis, make sure you park somewhere secure or make this your last option.

3. Cargo box 

If you have absolutely no room inside your car and you’re looking for a more secure transportation option than a roof rack that keeps your skis clean, you’re really looking at purchasing a cargo box.

The chances are that you can find a cargo box big enough to fit your skis that will work with your car, even if your car is on the small side. Once mounted, cargo boxes are easy to use and have locks to keep your skis protected from thieves as well as from the elements and dirt.

The downsides of this option are that cargo boxes aren’t cheap, costing anywhere between about $500 and $2000 and they also cut down on your fuel efficiency, making this the least economical option and not useful if you’re skiing on a budget. Furthermore, they’re quite large so if you want to take yours off your car during the summer months to improve your fuel efficiency, you’ll need a garage or storage space to store yours.

• The best ski socks 2022: for warm, comfy feet

So you’ve got yourself kitted out for the season with the best ski jacket and ski pants on the market, your lift ticket is active, now do you just bomb it down the mountain and see what happens? Contrary to what classic ski movies teach us, you don’t really want to just straightline downhill. Doing so will pick up a lot of speed and can be dangerous – at a certain point, the ski run is doing to change direction or you’ll come up on an obstacle like a tree or another skier and you’re going to have to be able to change direction. Learning how to turn on skis helps you to control your speed as well as your direction, and the better you get, the more efficient you can become at skiing – and that means you can take laps all day long. There’s truly no replacement for going out for a lesson or three with a qualified ski instructor, and of course lots and lots of practice, but if you like to do a little research before you head out, or just need a refresher after a long break from skiing, this simple guide outlines the basics of three fundamental turning techniques. 

1. The snow plow turn 

The snow plow, sometimes called “the wedge” or even “the pizza” is pretty much the first thing you’ll learn in ski school. In this technique, you push the outer edges of your skis out while turning the front tips in to create a wedge shape, or triangle, with your skis. This makes for an easy way to come to a stop when skiing, but it’s also the beginner method for initiating a turn. 

Start by sliding down a mellow slope and make your snow plow. Now imagine that the front tips of your skis are an arrow and start to point them to the right. With both skis facing the right, lean your weight into the left hand ski a little and keep turning your skis parallel to the hill until you are facing slightly uphill, where you will come to a complete stop. Naturally, when you’re turning to the left, you’ll lean your weight into the right, or downhill, ski.

You can use this technique on steeper terrain, however it is important to note that you’ll be skiing across the hill now and need to be aware of uphill skiers coming down behind you. You also don’t want to be too close to the edge of the ski slope if you’re turning towards it lest you overshoot and end up hugging a tree. Another note on this style of turning: it creates major outer hip burn, so you’ll want to graduate on to the parallel turn method quickly or your ski day will most likely be very short!

2. The parallel turn 

Once you’re comfortable with all the moving parts of skiing, like how to carry skis through the village without toppling over and how to get off a chairlift without causing a multi passenger pileup, you’ll probably start to covet the clean, easy looking turns of your fellow skiers.

How is it that they can turn so effortlessly without pushing half the mountain’s snow down the hill, you wonder? They’ve mastered the art of the parallel turn. Just as it sounds, this technique means your skis stay parallel to each other while you turn (otherwise known as “the french fry” in ski school) and you turn by pivoting your hips.

Find a green run or a mellow blue to practice your parallel turns. Start with all the ski basics – keep your knees bent and your weight forward, feet about hip width apart and hands a little bit forward. Instead of rolling onto the inside edges of both skis to make your wedge, flatten your skis and bring them parallel to each other and hey presto! you’ll  start moving downhill.

To start exploring parallel turns, you’ll want to get back on your edges, but in a different way from the wedge. To turn to the right, plant your right pole, lean forward and start to turn your shoulders and hips slightly to the right (in the direction you want to go). Very slightly tip onto the pinkie toe edge of your right foot and the big toe edge of your left foot, so that the big toe edge of your right ski and the pinkie toe edge of your left ski lift a little. When you’ve completed the turn, flatten your skis once again, then plant your left pole and start to turn to the left, rolling to the pinkie toe edge of your left foot and big toe edge of your right foot, then flatten your skis as you complete the turn. 

If you pick up a little too much speed for comfort at any point, you can just come back to the wedge till you feel comfortable again.

3. Carve turns 

Once you’ve mastered your parallel turns, you’re going to be pretty happy cruising around the mountain without too much outer hip burn and after a while, you might start to covet yet another ski turn – the carve turn. This sexy-looking number is really a kind of parallel turn that requires lots of swivel hip action and lets you move faster, so save this for when basic parallel turns start to feel really easy and even boring.

In many ways, carving is just a really exaggerated version of parallel turns and it’s a good idea to practice some drills with an instructor to get comfortable with tipping over onto your edges. This bends your skis against their natural camber and the result is that you move in a curve. The result is that you make less of that “S” shape as you travel down hill and move faster in a straighter trajectory while your skis and hips move from side to side underneath you.

To get started, assume your basic skier position on a mellow blue slope and start skiing downhill with your skis parallel. When you’re ready to try a carve turn, push down into your skis to nearly straighten your legs and left your chest, then bend your knees a lot, roll onto the pinkie toe edge of your right foot and big toe edge of your left foot and push your skis to the left as you shift your hips to the right, keeping your shoulders facing downhill. Quickly straighten up to draw your skis back underneath you and briefly flatten them, only to bend your knees again and roll onto the pinkie toe edge of your left foot and big toe edge of your right foot as you push your skis to the right and shift your hips to the left. The movement won’t feel so much like turning, but you are in fact making small, quick turns and you can keep going like this all the way down the hill or until you get tired.

• The best ski socks: tested and rated on the slopes

Once you’ve truly accepted the end of summer, there’s a slight quiver of excitement for the first snowfall and its accompanying winter sports. If you live in a  place with abundant snowfall, cross country skiing is a truly terrific way to stay active during the colder months, and can easily replace (or surpass) dryland adventures like hiking and trail running in terms of athleticism. With so much choice at the click of a mouse, it can be surprisingly easy to make the wrong choice and end up with skis you can't actually use (and may be difficult to ship back) and there’s nothing like an untouched pair of skis in your basement to make you feel regretful every time you do downstairs to grab something from the deep freeze. If you’re planning on trading your trail running shoes for something you can glide on this winter, check out our guide to how to choose cross country skis to make sure you get the best skis for your location, planned usage and experience level.

What type of cross country skiing are you doing?

The first, and most important, question you need to answer is what type of cross country skiing technique you’ll be doing. If you don’t yet know, start chatting with local skiers and ski guides to find out what’s possible in your area. Depending on how much snow your area receives and what type of terrain is available, some types of cross country skiing might not be realistic, so it’s best to do a little research before you make a purchase. 

Further, if you’re lucky enough to live somewhere where you have your choice of groomed trails, backcountry escapades and skating, it’s a good idea to hire equipment and test out different techniques before you buy to figure out which one you want to do. Cross country ski rentals are typically much cheaper than alpine skis, so don't be daunted by the economics of this.

Finally, the terminology around cross country skiing has evolved over the years and varies a bit from country to country, so it’s actually a good idea to pick up the phone or even (gasp!) go to a ski shop to chat with an expert about what kind of skiing you plan to do, so you don’t end up with inadequate skis for your needs.

Now that’s out of the way, you can divide cross country skis up into three broad categories that vary in terms of factors like width, grip and camber.

Classic cross country skis

If you’re planning on skiing on tracks at Nordic ski centers or cruising around in the woods without much incline and want to use the classic technique that looks a lot like walking or running in skis, you’ll want to arm yourself with a pair of classic cross country skis. These are long, skinny and lightweight with curved tips and have a double camber and a grip zone underneath your ski boot to help you glide and stride. 

These skis can further be broken down into those that are often referred to as race skis, which are generally stiffer and require you to be a bit more experienced, and great if you just want to move fast, or classic skis, which will have a bit more flex and are better if you just want to cruise around.

Finally, classic cross country skis usually come in two options:

• Waxable skis, which require you to apply wax to the grip zone and allow you to go faster and glide more smoothly on the tracks.
• Waxless skis, which have a fishscale or mohair section under the boot, and remove the need for waxing or skins. These are a bit more convenient for skiing both on and off trail.

Backcountry touring skis

If you are looking to get out into the wild and might be looking at some hills on your adventures, you’ll need a slightly shorter and fatter ski and will want to look into a pair of backcountry touring skis. (Quick note: these are different from an AT setup, which entail placing skins on alpine skis for uphill touring and downhill skiing. Backcountry touring cross country skis will be a bit heavier than classic skis and provide a bit more flex for turning and flotation in deeper snow. Most importantly, these skis have metal edges which allow you to climb uphill and give you better ability to make turns on the way down. These skis will also work on Nordic tracks, however, and also come in both waxable and waxless versions. 

Skate skis

If you’re planning on skate skiing on groomed tracks, you’ll need a pair of skate skis. It’s important to know that skate skis have smooth undersides to help you go fast, so they’re not appropriate for classic usage. Generally speaking, skate skis have a single camber, and are thinner and a bit shorter than classic skis. They're also more rigid, but if you’re a beginner, look for a pair with a bit more flex.

What size cross country skis do you need?

Once you know what type of cross country skis you need, you need to make sure to get them in the right size. Cross country skis are measured in centimeters, and you'll usually be able to pick to within five or 10 centimeters of your desired length, depending on the brand. As with all types of skiing, longer cross country skis are generally better suited for more experienced skiers, while shorter skis are ideal for beginners, however you must also take your body weight into account here. Fortunately, we’ve got an easy formula to figuring out what size cross country skis you need.

While you’re choosing your skis, you’ll want to pick out the right bindings, but most outlets will sell these as a package and pre-mount the bindings for you, which is the easiest option. Finally, you’ll also want to get the right type of cross country ski boot to suit the bindings. 

Though you can certainly pay upwards of $500 for a cross country ski setup, you can get a good setup for under $300, and it will be cheaper if you’re willing to wait until off-season.

• Best hiking gloves: keep your hands, warm, dry, and protected

There’s a lot to learn when you’re first starting out with skiing, from how to choose the right ski length to how to get up after falling on skis, but what nobody tells you is that your humiliation as a new skier actually begins on the interminable trudge from the car to the gondola. Knowing how to carry skis doesn’t seem like it’s a point much worth laboring until you find yourself grappling with your skis on the three-mile trek to the base of the hill, alternately tripping, sideswiping the odd parked car and leaving a few concussed skiers in your destructive wake. You’ve spent hours mastering the snowplough in your ski lessons so you don’t wipe out under the chairlift and a small mortgage gearing up with the best ski goggles and ski gloves so you can fit in with the pros, but nothing identifies you as a novice faster than doing the death march through the resort holding your skis out in front of you. 

Maybe you’ve decided to just carry your skis in one hand like a briefcase, only to drop one with a head-turning clatter each time you swing your arm. Perhaps you’re carrying them single handedly parallel with your body, slightly out in front of you and your arm is starting to ache before you’ve even got out of the parking lot. It could be you’ve gone with the baby cradle approach, carrying your skis horizontally across your body with both hands. Great for social distancing, but not ideal for any small children or private property that dares to enter your orbit. And god forbid you’ve given up carrying your skis altogether and have decided to ski the slushy road back to your car.

Whether you’re worried about being called a gaper, or you just want a more efficient way to carry your skis without being on the sharp end of a personal injury lawsuit, knowing how to carry skis makes that journey to the gondola painless, it’s refreshingly easy once you know how, and it doesn’t require you to buy a special carrying strap. In this article, we break down how to carry skis so you don't have a breakdown on your way to the chairlift.

How to carry skis 

You’ve no doubt looked on with envy at the locals sauntering breezily around the resort with their skis slung over their shoulders. In fact, on your first day you probably gave it a go, squealed in pain as the bindings cut into your shoulder and quickly went back to the Texas suitcase carrying method. But rest assured, with a few small refinements, the over-the-shoulder method is still the least burdensome for you, and probably the least dangerous for those around you, so let’s break down how to do it properly. We suggest you practice this at home a few times before setting off. 

1. Ready your skis 

Once you’ve got your boots buckled and your gloves on, set your poles aside and get your skis ready for carrying. You’re going to place your skis together with the tips down on the ground so that the bottoms (the part that touches the snow when you’re skiing) touch. With regular bindings, your skis will have brakes on them, which are the two little arms that stick out on either side of the bindings. These stop your skis from disappearing down the hill when you eject, so they’ll come in handy. For now, the only way to get the bottoms of your skis to touch is to lift one a little higher then slide it down so the brakes lock together loosely, keeping the skis touching. 

2. Pick up your skis 

Now, if you try to pick up your skis using the one with the brakes on top, you’ll end up holding that one ski while the other ski clatters loudly to the ground. People will stare. Instead, pick up your skis by the binding of the one that has the brakes on the bottom, closest to the ground. Not only will you get both skis, but thanks to the brakes interlocking, they’ll stay together. 

3. Sling your skis nonchalantly over your shoulder 

Keeping your ski tips pointing down, lift the skis by the binding of the one with the brakes on the bottom and place the skis over one shoulder, so that the bindings are just behind your shoulder. Don’t place the bindings on your shoulder as this will hurt – a lot. Make sure the flat, top part of the ski is touching your shoulder and not the edges, which are sharp. 

When you put your skis over your shoulder, make sure that the ski with the brakes on the bottom is the one touching your shoulder. If you get this wrong, then the ski that isn’t touching your shoulder will just slide off with a clatter. People will stare. 

If you get all of this right, the bindings will keep the skis from sliding off your shoulder and the interlocking brakes will keep the ski that’s not touching you from sliding down. The tips of your skis will be pointing down towards the ground and the tails up towards the sky behind you, so the skis are at a diagonal and angle rather than parallel with the ground. You barely need to do anything with your hand other than rest it lightly on your skis. You look cool.

4. Walk coolly to the gondola 

It’s time to make your debut. Grab your poles with your other, free hand and get walking. You can carry your poles like a briefcase if you’re pretty confident walking in ski boots, or use them like a walking stick to prevent you from falling but pretend that it’s just how you carry them. No one will know.  Once you get confident, you can even carry your poles in the same hand as your skis and keep the other hand free for high fives.

Remember, ski boots are tricky to walk in and slippery on wet ground, which can be a whole other source of humiliation, so go slow. Don’t make any big, sudden turns and swing your skis around or you could take someone out. If you need to go down stairs, pass the poles into the hand that’s carrying the skis and for the love of god use the handrail. If you need to push your way through a door, it’s best to slide your skis down for a moment and hold them in one hand by the bottom binding, then just hike them back up over your shoulder when you’re through. When you get to the lift line, take them off your shoulder or you’ll be the least popular person in the queue. 

And you’ve made it! You head over to how to stop on skis for some tips on getting back down the hill unscathed.

Backcountry skiing is like having an all access pass to winter. There’s no expensive lift tickets to be bought or long lift lines to stand in between runs, just miles of untouched powder waiting to be yours if you’re willing to put in the effort it takes to hike in and get it. If you’re thinking about trying backcountry skiing this winter, you’ll need some specific gear in addition to gumption though, so we came up with a quick backcountry ski gear checklist to help you get kitted out for your winter expeditions. 

What kind of gear do you need for backcountry skiing? 

The following is a list of the essentials you’ll need to get started with backcountry skiing, whether you’re planning on Alpine Touring or Telemark skiing. Though it might look like a lot, try not to be discouraged as some of this stuff you’ll likely already own. That said, the initial investment can be a bit hefty, so if you’re not sure you’ll even like backcountry skiing, definitely rent a set up before you commit. 

Skis 

One of the biggest questions around backcountry ski gear is, can you use regular skis for backcountry skiing? The answer is yes. You can pretty much attach AT or telemark bindings to most alpine skis so this is definitely an area where you can avoid making a big purchase.

That said, if you’re looking to buy new skis specifically for backcountry skiing, there are a couple of things to consider. If you plan to do lots of steeper uphilling, look for skis that are light, short and wide. This way, you’re not trying to pull too much weight up the hill, and you’ll be able to float over deep powder on the way down. Of course, if you’re in an area where the snow isn’t powdery, there’s no real benefit to wide skis.

If you’re planning to do more cruising over rolling hills, you might consider backcountry skis with fish scales on the bottom (also called waxless skis) so that you can switch between uphill and downhill without taking the skins on and off your skis constantly.

Bindings 

Where you can easily use most alpine skis for backcountry skiing, you’ll want specific bindings that allow your heel to come free so you can climb uphill while wearing your skis. This is not possible using alpine bindings where your heel is locked in because you won’t have the ankle mobility required.

Basically, there are two types of bindings you want to look at: AT bindings, or telemark bindings. For uphill travel, they’re not all that different. Both free your heel while telemark bindings have a cable that can be shortened or lengthened and AT bindings do not. The big difference is in the downhill. With AT bindings, when it’s time to ski down, you’ll click your heel in and ski down in the alpine style. With telemark bindings, you have to telemark ski down, meaning your heel stays free. So, if you’re already a telemark skier, you actually already have most of the kit for backcountry skiing. If you’re not, you need to decide if you want to learn a new style of skiing in addition to getting off piste. In short, decide what type of skiing you want to do and get the bindings required for that style.

There is one further option which is to simply hike up in your ski boots with your skis attached to your backpack, then ski down. This saves you from having to invest in special bindings and skins, but chances are that once you see other people effortlessly gliding uphill wearing their skis, you’ll wish you had just gone all in.

Boots 

Another common question is, do you need special boots for backcountry skiing? Once again, the answer is yes. Your regular alpine boots will be too heavy and stiff for backcountry skiing. Alpine Touring ski boots often look quite similar to modern ski boots, but they are much lighter and have a lot more flexibility, and usually adjustable buckles that give you even more flex. Also, they’ll work with your AT bindings. 

Telemark boots range from ones that look similar to AT boots to ones that better resemble winter hiking boots and again are light and flexible but offer lots of protection. You’ll simply get the boots that work with the bindings you’ve chosen. 

Skins 

As we already mentioned, you might get fishscale skis for rolling terrain, however regardless of what type of skis you choose, you’ll still want skins for going up anything steep. Skins are made from a textured, felt-like material and have an adhesive side so you can stick them onto the bottoms of your skis when you’re going uphill. You can’t ski downhill wearing them so they’ll need to come off at the top and go in your backpack.

Now, while the adhesive material keeps your skins in place, they also have an attachment on each end that clips onto your ski. Some of these are only compatible with certain types of ski, for example requiring your ski to have a hole in the end, so just check that they will work with your skis before you buy.

The only other thing to consider is the size. If you’re cutting your skins to fit your skis, make sure they’re bigger than your skis to begin with. The easiest option is to pick a pre-fitted pair or have the ski shop or manufacturer cut them for you.

Poles 

There’s no special kind of backcountry ski poles you need to invest in – just use regular ski poles. They’ll help you climb on the way up and of course you’ll want them for your turns on the way down. 

Avalanche gear 

If you’re planning on being on or near slopes that are at a 30-degree angle or steeper, you absolutely must be well versed in avalanche safety. Avalanches occur frequently in the backcountry, they’re often triggered by skiers and they can easily be deadly. This counts for both skiing up a steep slope and skiing along, say, a track or road where the slope to one side is steep. In both of these cases, an avalanche can occur. For backcountry skiing, you’ll need the following: 

• Beacon 
• Probe
• Shovel

You need to take an avalanche safety course to properly learn how to use this equipment. Of course, if you’re touring around mellow terrain, you don’t need this equipment. 

Backpack 

Unlike with resort skiing, you’ll have to carry a ski backpack when you go into the backcountry. In it, you’ll have your avalanche gear, the bag that your skins come in plus the piece of material that they stick to so that you can avoid them losing adhesiveness by picking up dirt or snow. You’ll also want to carry your helmet and goggles for the descent, a spare base layer to change into since you’ll likely get sweaty on the way up and water and snacks of course. You’ll need to make sure your bag isn’t packed to the brim as you’ll need a little room in case you get warm and end up putting clothing like your ski jacket, ski gloves or hat in your pack. So, a regular hiking backpack will do, just make sure it’s big enough for all that. 

Your ski gear takes a real thrashing throughout the winter, whether it’s your ski gloves getting packed away wet or your skis losing their water resistance and getting scratched by rocks, and knowing how to wax skis is vital to keep them performing optimally. Waxing your skis regularly means you’ll glide faster and your turns will be smoother, as well as protecting the bottoms of your skis from damage. In this article, we run through why, when and how to wax skis.

Why do you need to wax your skis?

Unless you’re using fishscale skis, you’ll want to wax the bottom of your skis regularly for virtually any type of skiing. Waxing the bottom of your skis keeps them hydrophobic, which means they’ll resist water better. The more hydrophobic they are, the faster and smoother your skiing will be. If you don’t ever wax your skis, over time the base of your skis will dry out and shrink as it pulls away from the edges. Usually this just means your skiing isn’t as effortless, but in extreme cases the bottom could blow out if you hit a rock or are skiing in icy conditions. 

So, waxing your skis helps with your performance, the condition of your skis and safety.

How do you know if your skis need to be waxed?

There’s no set timing for how often you should wax your skis. After all, it depends how much and how frequently you use them for one thing. Some diehards insist that you need to wax your skis every week, while many people just opt for once at the beginning of the season and once at the end before you store them.

There are two signs your skis could do with a wax, however. When your skis need waxed, the bottoms will start to discolor and fade, looking a bit chalky. Also, you might notice that they feel a bit sticky underfoot. If you are mid season and notice either of these indications, it’s time to get the wax out.

How to wax skis: what you’ll need

• Clean towels
• Ski wax
• Rubbing alcohol
• Plastic scraper
• Nylon and horsehair brushes 
• Waxing iron (don’t use your regular clothing iron)

How to wax skis

1. Prepare your skis

First, lock your ski brakes up so they’re out of the way once you flip your skis over. Next, place one ski bottom side up on a vice if you have one, or stack it on books or bricks.

2. Clean your skis

To prepare your ski for waxing, clean the bottom thoroughly using a clean towel and rubbing alcohol. If there’s any chunks of dirt, brush it off first with a nylon brush.

3. Apply the wax

Heat the iron, then press the block of wax against the iron, holding it over the ski. If the wax smokes, it’s too hot and you should turn the iron off and let it cool, then start again. Let the wax drip down onto the ski in a long line from tip to tail. 

4. Work the wax into your skis

Next, run the iron over the bottom of the ski 3-4 times to spread the wax evenly across it. By the time you’ve finished, the top side of the ski (where your bindings are) should feel warm to touch.

While it’s cooling, do the other ski.

5. Scrape the wax off

When the wax has cooled and hardened, use the plastic scraper to scrape off all the excess wax from the bottom and sides and edges of the skis. Be thorough.

6. Polish your skis

Finally, pass over your ski bottoms several times with your nylon brush to clear the wax from the porous structure, then vigorously polish the bottoms with your horsehair brush.

Looking for other ski gear tips? Make sure to read out articles on how to stop ski goggles from fogging and how to wash ski gloves to keep your kit in tip top shape all season long.

Where do you store your cross country skis when you’re done with them for the season? In the garage with your tools? Hanging on a rack on your front porch? In the back of your truck? Wrong on all counts if you want them to be in good shape for next year. Knowing how to store cross country skis properly helps prevent them degrading from season to season and ensures they’re ready for great gliding next winter. 

What is the best way to store skis? 

It’s easy to just stash your cross country skis somewhere out of sight. After all, you don’t always know which ski day is going to be your last of the season and sometimes you’re just excited about the warmer weather. But when the snow has well and truly melted, if your cross country skies are still lying in your basement or stashed in a bag somewhere, they’ll be left open to oxidation and warping, which can dry and degrade the bases and rust the edges over time.

Once you’re sure you’re not going to use your skis again till next year, dig them out along with the rest of your kit and prepare them for storage. 

1. Clean your cross country skis 

You don’t want to pull out dirty skis next winter and small particles of dirt can lead to rusting edges or speed up degradation. Grab a sponge and a bucket of lukewarm water with a little dish soap and give your skis a quick scrub. Rinse the soap off (you can use a hose) and wipe them down with a clean towel and let them air dry for an hour. 

At the same time, you might as well give your cross country ski boots a brush off and wipe down. Then, while you’re waiting for your skis to dry, you can wash your ski gloves. 

2. Wax your cross country skis 

Waxing your skis definitely helps them perform, so long as they're waxable skis and not fish scales. You may not be thinking about this if you’re getting ready to store them for months anyway, but it also keeps the bottoms from drying out. Follow the instructions in our article on how to wax skis and as a bonus benefit, when you pull them out for next winter, they’ll be ready to glide! 

3. Leave your bindings alone 

Ignore any outdated advice about adjusting the bindings – new cross country ski bindings are designed with tension and you could lose that if you release them. 

4. Store your cross country skis 

When your skis are clean and waxed, they are ready to be stored. It doesn’t matter whether you store them horizontally or vertically. What’s most important is that you find a dark, temperature controlled area in your house that is neither too humid nor warm. This might discount handy storage areas like your garage, basement and attic unfortunately, but an interior closet usually works great as does the area under your bed. You should store your boots with your skis since they require the same conditions.

Finally, if you use a bag to carry your cross country skis around during the season, don’t store them inside this bag, which can trap damp.

When you’re shopping for skis for the first time, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by all the new terminology. Edges, waist, rocker, camber, what does it all mean? Some of these terms are more important to understand than others, and in this article, we take a look at a feature called camber, that is responsible for ensuring smooth turns, stability and making sure you have good grip on the snow. So what is camber on skis, and how does it work? 

What is camber on skis? 

The word camber means a slightly convex or arched shape of a horizontal surface and in skis, it describes exactly that. If you take a traditional ski and place it on the snow without putting any weight on it, the only points that actually touch the snow will be the two ends near the tip and tail. The midsection (waist) actually arches up a little. This arch is called camber in skis, and is also sometimes referred to as standard alpine camber or positive camber.

Classic camber is between 3-5mm and you’ll find it on most skis, whether you’re looking for something to ski groomers (on piste) or backcountry (freeride). Many cross country skiers use skis that feature double camber these days, which means that when you’re on both feet, the waist of your ski never touches the snow and when you shift your weight into one ski, it flattens to help with gliding and traction. 

Why do skis have camber? 

Camber makes your skis a little springy, so once you clip your boot into your bindings, you’ll feel a little give under foot. This allows you to use your edges to find good grip, especially in icy conditions or hard pack snow, and allows for easier, more effective turning and stopping.

Camber distributes your weight more evenly throughout the ski. If you don’t have any camber on your skis, there’s more pressure on the middle of the ski which makes it more difficult to turn and control. Flat skis with no camber have minimal grip and aren’t very manageable, which is why they’re very uncommon these days.

What is a reverse camber ski? 

There’s one other term you might come across in your research on skis, and that is reverse camber. So what on earth is that? Better known as rocker, reverse camber is the exact opposite of camber. Introduced by the late skier Shane McConkey in 2002, rocker skis revolutionized powder skiing with a design based on the water ski, where the waist of the ski touches the snow and the tip and tail curve upwards (kind of like a rocking chair). 

Rocker skis enhance your flotation in powder and improve your turning ability, especially when skiing in the terrain park.

Is camber or rocker better for all-mountain? 

If you’re in the market for all-mountain skis, meaning one pair that you can use in backcountry and side country skiing as well as groomers, the truth is, you probably don’t have to choose between camber or rocker. 

These days, skis for all types of skiing are mostly being designed with both camber and rocker. These two features will come in different variations, for example a pair of skis might only have rocker at the tip plus camber and a flat tail, or they could have double rocker and camber. Each variation will have a slightly different focus, however just know that skis with camber and double rocker are great for all-mountain skiing, but will work nicely on groomers and in powder too.

Your best bet is to talk to a ski professional about your ability and the type of skiing you want to do, choose the right ski length and then you’ll be able to find the pair that helps you make the best turns. 

When gearing up for cross country skiing, the first question you should be asking yourself is what size cross country skis do I need? Different types of skiing require different calculations when it comes to choosing the right ski length. Ensuring your cross country skis are the right length means you can control your skis, turn with ease and stop with minimal effort. This means you’ll have a better time, be able to focus on refining your technique and reduce the risk of injury.  

 What size cross country skis do I need? 

As we’ve discussed previously, cross country skiing offers phenomenal benefits but in order to really reap them, you want the right skis that help you with your technique and efficiency. It’s good to lead with the fact that there is no standardized system for choosing the right ski length, however, there are some helpful guidelines. 

For some types of skiing, the calculation depends on several variables, such as snow, terrain, height and ability level. Fortunately, when it comes to cross country skiing, it’s quite easy to calculate the right length for you since we can easily determine exactly what type of cross country skiing you’ll be doing beforehand.  

What type of cross country skiing will you be doing? 

To start, you’ll need to know whether you’ll be doing classic cross country skiing on a groomed track, classic cross country skiing in the backcountry or skate skiing. Next, figure out your height in centimeters and use the following formula: 

* For skate skiing skis, more experienced skiers will go a bit longer and beginners will go a bit shorter 

Factor in your body weight 

There is one other variable that you should take into account when choosing cross country skis, and that is your weight. Basically, if you are relatively heavy for your height, you’ll want to add another five centimeters to the formula above to account for the extra weight, and if you’re relatively light for your height, subtract five centimeters.

Cross country skis come in standard lengths, so if there isn’t a ski that exactly matches your requirements, round up or down to pick the one closest.

Choosing cross country ski boots and bindings 

Once you’ve chosen a pair of cross country skis, you’ll need to check if they come pre-mounted with bindings or if you need to buy and mount your own. If they come with bindings, make sure you buy a pair of cross country ski boots that are compatible with the bindings.

If you need to buy and mount your own bindings, check the compatibility of the ski then take a look at our guide to the different types of cross country ski bindings. Once you’ve selected your bindings, all you need to do is buy a pair of cross country ski boots that are compatible with your bindings and best for the type of cross country skiing you plan to do. 

Now that you’ve got your skis, bindings and boots, all that’s left is to dress appropriately for cross country skiing – meaning for high intensity in cold weather – and get out there. 

The allure of skiing is more often tied up in the idea of zooming down the slopes than it is to what you do when you reach the bottom. Sure, skiing straight through the lodge looks fun in the movie Hot Dog, but in reality knowing how to stop on skis is actually the most important skill you need. 

Knowing how to stop on skis not only prevents you from getting into a nasty collision, it also helps you to control your speed so you’re more Harkin Banks and less Bridget Jones on the slopes. And let's be honest, how else are you going to take your all-important ski selfie?

In all seriousness, there’s no replacement for taking lessons with a professional but here we introduce you to the three primary tricks to stop on skis as a beginner and are intended as a reference guide while you’re still learning to ski.

1. The snow plow 

The snow plow, sometimes called “the wedge” or even “the pizza” is pretty much the first thing you’ll learn in ski school. In this technique, you push the outer edges of your skis out while turning the front tips in to create a wedge shape, or triangle, with your skis. This will definitely plow some snow but is an effective technique for stopping quickly when the grade isn’t too steep. 

Make a big wide wedge with your skis to come to a quick stop, or a smaller wedge to slow yourself down. When you’re learning to ski, expect some serious outer thigh burn after a full day of plowing down the hill.

2. Turning 

Once you’ve mastered the art of the snow plow, you can add on this technique to start turning. Contrary to what classic ski movies teach us, you don’t really want to just straightline down the mountain. Doing so will pick up a lot of speed and can be dangerous.

Start by sliding down a mellow slope and make your snow plow. Now imagine that the front tips of your skis are an arrow and start to point them to the right. With both skis facing the right, lean your weight into the left hand ski a little and keep turning your skis parallel to the hill until you are facing slightly uphill, where you will come to a complete stop. Naturally, when you’re turning to the left, you’ll lean your weight into the right, or downhill, ski.

You can use this technique to stop on skis on steeper terrain, however it is important to note that you’ll be skiing across the hill now and need to be aware of uphill skiers coming down behind you. You also don’t want to be too close to the edge of the ski slope if you’re turning towards it lest you overshoot and end up hugging a tree.

 3. The hockey stop 

Also known as the parallel stop, the hockey stop is a very effective means of stopping suddenly on any grade of slope and a bit more advanced than either of the other techniques described here. Once you’ve mastered the snow plow and turning to stop on skis, you can try the hockey stop where you essentially quickly turn both skis parallel to the hill to come to a complete halt.

Start skiing downhill. To turn to the right, weight your left ski first and quickly rotate both skis completely to the right, keeping them parallel to each other rather than making a wedge shape. Bend your knees and keep your weight over your left (downhill ski) and keep your skis flat until you stop to maintain your balance. Make sure you turn from your feet and not your upper body. 

The hockey stop works on any terrain and speed, though it is harder to do at slow speed where you might prefer the turn. You will almost definitely have a side that feels easier, so get good at that side first, but make sure to practise the other side too.

How to stop on skis

As you can see, the ideal progression is to start with the snow plow, then try turning and finally attempt the Hockey Stop. Skiing is a fun but inherently dangerous sport, and seeking out guidance from a professional as well as taking your time to learn each step can ensure you enjoy your time on the slopes for many years to come.

Now that we’ve got the technical stuff out of the way, make sure to check out our guide to the best base layers to keep you toasty during all your winter sports on frigid days. 

If you’re picking out a new pair of skis for the upcoming season, knowing how to choose the right ski length will play a large part in determining whether you have fun or fail on the slopes.

Many first timers consult their expert buddies and end up hitting the slopes in skis that are too long, making it difficult to turn and resulting in annoying crossed tips. The end result is that your skiing career may be very short indeed. If, on the other hand, you end up with skis that are too short, you might have less control, a lack of response from your skis and the skis may not absorb the vibration once you start to speed up, meaning a jaw chattering run. 

The right length of skis will allow you to make smooth, comfortable turns and give you the freedom to improve at skiing.

Winter sports gear doesn’t come cheap, so it’s important to make the right decisions the first time around, not only to save you pain on the hill but to save you money too. So let’s take a look at the factors to consider when choosing the right ski length.

If you're still figuring out what kind of skiing you want to get into, check out our article on the benefits of cross country skiing. 

How to choose the right ski length

First off, there isn’t a hard and fast rule for choosing ski length the way there is for, say, buying a pair of shoes. You have to take into account several variables, from your height and weight to what kind of skiing you’re doing and even where you’re doing it. As an example, a 5’8” skier might choose skis that are anywhere from 160 - 180 cm in length which is quite a range. Fortunately, there are some general guidelines that can help make sure you don’t end up dropping a lot of money on skis that end up becoming glorified coat hangers in your front hallway. 

1. Consider your body type 

For a rough starting point, you want skis that are roughly eye-height with you. That said, if you have a heavier body type, take that measurement and add a couple of centimeters. If you’re very light, deduct a couple of centimeters. 

2. Honor your experience level 

Advanced and expert skiers often go a bit longer than the eye-height formula, while beginners will have a much easier time on shorter skis. If you’re brand new, don’t plan on “growing into” your skis. Choose a pair that are eye-height and focus on getting good before you upgrade. 

3. Know the snow 

For hard pack, groomed snow and ski racing, you might want to add a couple of centimetres to your ski length. For powder skiing, there’s some debate over whether you want to go longer or shorter but the truth is you really want wider to increase the surface area and allow you to float rather than sink. If you’re getting started with resort skiing, plan on groomed runs and you can work your way up to powder later, which is a bit more difficult to learn to ski and not everybody's cup of tea.

4. Learn your skiing style 

Naturally, if you’re brand new to skiing, you won’t know this yet and should just go with the eye-height formula once again, which also works if you like just cruising around. If you already know you like to take long, fast turns, then add a couple of centimetres. If you take short, sharp, fast turns and moguls, then trim a couple of centimeters off the length.

Finally, the best thing you can do when choosing new skis is to demo a pair first. Test them out on the hill for a day and see if you like them before you shell out on them.