A new rock climbing documentary has been released showing three of the world's best climbers in a race to get back to sending a 9a route.

Race to 9A, directed by climber Simon Yamamoto, follows Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter as each man tries to become the first to return to climbing at 9a level – equal to 5.14d in the Yosemite Decimal System. It shouldn't be that hard, you might think – Caldwell climbed the Dawn Wall in 2014, Trotter repointed Estado Critico in Spain in 2015 and even though Honnold says his 9a attempts later turned out to be more like 8cs, no one doubts the Free Solo star's climbing abilities.

But the three men share a common affliction: they're getting older. They have families now. And their focus on training just isn't what it used to be.

"My life used to be all about rock climbing, and now I would put rock climbing as one of like four equal priorities," says Caldwell, who first climbed a 9a aged 18. Last year, we saw him climb a new route on the biggest alpine face in North America with Honnold, but the ensuing documentary The Devil's Climb highlighted the struggles of aging and climbing.

"When life gets busy and the kids are sick, it starts to get easier and easier to say, oh I'll do it tomorrow," says Trotter in the opening of the 28-minute flick. He began at age 16 and was the first Canadian to climb at 5.14c.

At the time of filming, in the spring of 2024, Honnold has a two-year-old and two-week old, so even though he himself is the baby of the trio – still in his 30s – he admits that even he's feeling the pace of family life.

"Realistically, over the last two months I've been climbing outside two days a week, maybe, and then training in the gym maybe two days a week and just totally haggard all the time," says Honnold.

Honnold says he thinks that Caldwell, 46, is having an easier time "grounding down" into middle age, and while the Dawn Wall star doesn't give off major FOMO vibes in Race to 9A, it was only in October 2023 that he expressed sadness after failing to send the Heart Route in Yosemite.

According to Honnold, all three have climbing partners already, but they're "24-year-olds without jobs who can spend six hours a day in the gym" and aren't up all night doing laundry like he is. So the three of them set what Trotter calls "a gentlemen's challenge" – each works on his own project to see who can be the first to get back to 9a graded routes.

The film shows the men visiting each other as they project their routes – and also bailing on visits due to sick kids – and contemplating the virtues of being in competition with climbers who are going through similar things.

"It's definitely ignited something in me where I know that they will be working towards the goal and I don't want to get too far behind," says Trotter, who's chosen Spirit Quest after belaying Caldwell on the route years ago.

"Basically, if I can exceed my own expectations and perform at a higher level than I thought I coul,d then that's that's fine," says Honnold philosophically about his attempt to send Bachelor Party on Potosi Mountain near his home in Vegas.

He says that as far as he's concerned, the only thing standing between him and being able to climb anything on earth is finger strength, but the accountability of his friends is helpful too.

"It helps to have training partners who are aspiring for the same things but also struggling with the same challenges."

If you follow the climbers, you probably already know who wins the race, but just in case, we won't spoil it for you. Check out the film below, which is refreshingly heartfelt and worthy of half an hour of your attention.

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German climbing brand Edelrid has announced a new type of belay assistance that it says will lead to greater safety in the sport.

The OHMEGA is designed to be used on the first piece of protection when climbing a wall, crag or mountain and aims to reduce the load on a belayer if the lead climber falls. The lightweight device should also reduce rope drag for the lead climber.

The new device, which will go on sale next August, has been tested by Edelrid athlete and top climber Tommy Caldwell, who described it as “ingenious”.

“I’ve seen many accidents that could have been avoided by using the OHMEGA. After trying it once, you also realize just how easy it is to use," says Caldwell.

“The device itself weighs little more than a standard quickdraw [the name for a piece of climbing equipment]."

How does the Edelrid OHMEGA work?

The OHMEGA, which weighs just 170g, has an integrated Dyneema sling to offer three different braking levels. This is operated by a simple hand movement to suit the weight distribution.

An integrated pulley keeps the friction generated at the first bolt, or point of climbing protection, so users won’t notice the OHMEGA when climbing or clipping in the rope.

Another advantage is that the belayer should find it easier to belay dynamically and softly.

In the event of a fall, the cam brakes the fall, supporting the belayer. The additional braking effect also balances out any weight differences between climbers. As a result, the belayer won’t be pulled off the ground or into the wall in the event of a big fall.

With falls from a low height, the braking effect of the OHMEGA reduces the risk of both the climbing partners colliding and the climber hitting the ground. The OHMEGA also brakes if the climber falls into the device.

Caldwell added: “I wouldn’t be surprised if the OHMEGA were to become a standard piece of gear for the climbing community.”

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The Devil’s Climb follows renowned rock climbers Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell on their audacious attempt to summit the notorious Devil’s Thumb, a perilous 9,000-foot (2,760m) peak in the Alaskan wilderness. This expedition, spanning 2,600 miles by bike, sailboat and on foot, tests the climbers’ physical and emotional limits.

For Tommy, it marks a critical comeback after a serious Achilles injury, while for Alex it represents one of the most thrilling adventures of his life. These two long-time friends and climbing partners aim to make history by completing the first-ever single-day traverse of all five peaks of the Devil’s Thumb massif. Directed by climber Renan Ozturk, the documentary showcases their shared determination, skill and deep bond as they pushed themselves to the edge.

Climbing the Devil’s Thumb was such a massive challenge. Can you tell us how you prepared for such an expedition, both physically and nutritionally?

Alex Honnold: In terms of nutrition, we basically ate anything and everything we could get our hands on. As we traveled through towns, we ate at diners and stopped wherever we could to fuel up. It was like constantly throwing coal on the fire because we were cycling for eight hours a day. So yeah, we were eating a lot – probably more than usual just to keep our energy up. We weren’t too stressed about specific diets, just about eating enough.

As for physical preparation, it was a bit different for Tommy and me. Tommy was coming back from a serious Achilles injury, so that affected his training. For me, this expedition was an extension of my usual climbing life. It wasn’t so much something I trained specifically for because I felt like the climbing aspect was within the scope of what I do in a normal month or two. I’ll admit, I probably should’ve trained more for the cycling part, though – I wasn’t in cycling shape at all. But the actual climbing? That was normal, though definitely more adventurous and in cooler locations!

Tommy Caldwell: Yeah, that’s about right. For me, the climbing wasn’t as hard as what we typically do, although it was definitely dangerous. But technically speaking, the rock climbing wasn’t too challenging, especially compared to some of the harder things Alex and I have done in the past. It was actually perfect for where I was physically. Because of my Achilles injury, I hadn’t climbed much in the past two years, so I wasn’t in great climbing shape when we started the trip.

I did spend more time training for the cycling than Alex did because that’s what I could do. With the Achilles injury limiting my climbing, I leaned into the cycling more in preparation for the trip. So, the physical aspect was manageable, but it was definitely a journey.

Speaking of the cycling, that part of the trip looked brutal, especially with the rain and big trucks flying by. What was that like?

Alex Honnold: Yeah, honestly, the cycling wasn’t as fun as the climbing. I had hoped to prepare more for the cycling, but life kind of got in the way. Right before we started, my daughter got sick, and then my wife and I both got sick, so I was dealing with all that. I had planned to do some bigger training rides, but those didn’t happen, so I showed up at the start still not feeling 100%. In retrospect, I should’ve been better prepared for the cycling. I mean, the roads weren’t great, and the weather wasn’t helping. There were a lot of moments where I thought, “This isn’t fun at all.” But you just adapt and push through.

Tommy Caldwell: For me, the cycling was an important part of the adventure. I think for Alex, it was more of a necessary annoyance to get to the climbing, but for me, it added to the magnitude of the trip. If we had just flown to the Devil’s Thumb and climbed it, the whole thing would’ve taken about a week. That didn’t feel big enough for me. I wanted something that felt epic, something way bigger. So we decided to cycle, sail, and hike into the mountain. We could’ve taken a helicopter straight to the base, but that wouldn’t have made the climb feel like the grand adventure I envisioned.

The cycling – and everything leading up to the climb – was part of expanding what’s possible in these kinds of expeditions. I loved that we made the journey into something massive.

Before tackling the Devil’s Thumb, you did a major preparation climb at the Bugaboos, an alpine paradise in British Columbia that combines Yosemite’s rock quality with glacier features. How did that help the preparation?

Alex Honnold: The Bugaboos were a perfect training ground for Alaska. It has glaciers, moraines, and rocky terrain – similar to what we’d face on the Devil’s Thumb, but on a smaller scale. Alaska’s peaks and glaciers are massive, but the Bugaboos allowed us to brush up on skills like glacier traversing and walking on snow without the same level of intensity. It gave us a good chance to practice before taking on the larger, more dangerous mountains in Alaska.

I detected a sense of relief after completing that training climb, especially for you, Tommy. I guess it marked your return to expedition mode and proved your Achilles was holding up. Would you say that's accurate?

Tommy Caldwell: Yeah, that’s totally fair. It felt like everything was coming together. You know, when you plan these expeditions, there’s always this uncertainty – like, “Is this too ambitious? Are we going to make it?” So, when we finished a big climb like the Bugaboos, it was definitely a moment of relief.

You guys made it look intense! At one point, I noticed you were eating breakfast, while a rockfall could be heard crashing down in the distance. What were you eating there?

Alex Honnold: Oh yeah, that was probably freeze-dried oatmeal or something similar. A lot of the time we were eating typical backcountry food. You know, stuff that’s easy to carry and prepare, like freeze-dried meals with oats and dried fruit. It’s basic, but it does the job when you’re in remote areas.

Tommy Caldwell: Yeah, we had a fair amount of those freeze-dried meals. You get used to them. It’s just part of the experience, especially when you’re far from any other food sources.

How did the experience of traveling such a long distance on bikes, boats, and foot impact the final climb itself? Did it make the summit feel more meaningful?

Alex Honnold: Definitely. I think any summit becomes more meaningful when you’ve put in a lot of effort to get there. The whole expedition – cycling, sailing, hiking – it made the actual climbing more significant. By the time we reached the base of the Devil’s Thumb, we were already deep into this adventure, mentally and physically. That made getting to the summit feel a lot more rewarding.

Tommy Caldwell: Yeah, exactly. The journey added to the whole experience. Climbing the Devil’s Thumb on its own would’ve been a great adventure, but when you add the lead-up – cycling through rain, dodging trucks, sailing the inside passage, hiking through forests – becomes an epic journey. It wasn’t just about reaching the summit; it was about the entire process of getting there. The effort we put into the approach made the climb itself feel much more significant.

The film captures not only the physical challenges but also the emotional bond between the two of you. How did this shared history and friendship impact the way you approached the climb?

Alex Honnold: Tommy and I have a long history of climbing together, so we trust each other completely. That definitely impacted how we approached the expedition. We know each other’s strengths and weaknesses, and we can rely on each other in ways that you can’t always with other climbing partners. There’s a deep level of trust, and that makes everything a bit smoother. We don’t have to communicate everything because we just get it.

Tommy Caldwell: Exactly. That trust allows us to focus on the task at hand without worrying about all the little things. It’s an unspoken understanding that comes from years of climbing together. On a big expedition like this, having that level of trust makes all the difference. It wasn’t just about summiting the Devil’s Thumb – it was about doing it together, pushing ourselves, and supporting each other through the ups and downs.

National Geographic’s The Devil's Climb is available to watch now on Disney+ and Hulu in the US. UK and Australia release dates are TBC. 

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For most of us who love the outdoors, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell need no introduction. For the rest of you, they’re two of the greatest rock climbers of all time and between them are responsible for two of the best climbing films ever made: Free Solo and Dawn Wall.

So when I heard that the pair – who are also close friends – were teaming up for a joint expedition to climb another as-yet-unconquered face and make a film about it, I figured I already knew what it would be. Two climbing greats doing something that’s never been done, hopefully a moment of extreme peril where everything hangs in the balance, and perhaps a glimpse into life in the van. But the Devil’s Climb is something a bit different.

“You don’t even have to be interested in climbing, really, to appreciate this film because this is the story of two partners seeking out a big adventure and having an experience together,” Honnold tells me.

“The climbing is impressive and certainly really, really scenic, but it’s not really a climbing film, I don't think. It’s the kind of thing I could imagine my grandmother watching and really enjoying it.”

To be fair, neither of his grandmothers is with us anymore, but I get his point – there’s more to this film than nail-biting high drama, despite the sinister backdrop and the high stakes, and yet it’s subtler than their previous film projects.

“It highlights the things that we've always loved about climbing"

Directed by fellow climber Renan Ozturk, of Meru fame, the Devil’s Thumb sees the duo complete the first-ever single-day traverse of all five peaks of Alaska’s Devil’s Thumb massif. That includes the biggest alpine face in North America, which until last year had never been climbed. In fact, only a few had attempted it – including Jon Krakauer in 1977 as described in his book Eiger Dreams – and a lot of them died trying.

On paper, the Devil’s Climb hits all the usual notes. The group of striking peaks on the western edge of the Stikine Icecap provides an appropriately sensational backdrop to the action and more than enough challenge for the two climbers – but you won’t even see them get on belay until 50 minutes into the 75-minute documentary.

“It highlights the things that we've always loved about climbing, which climbers almost take for granted a little bit, so they'll be slightly less struck by the film,” says Caldwell, who thinks non-climbers will probably enjoy the film even more than climbers.

“If you're not a climber at all, you're gonna see the friendship, you’re gonna see the beauty, you’re gonna see the adventure.”

"Biking on the highway was probably the most dangerous thing we did"

If you’re hoping for knife-edge thrills akin to Honnold pulling off the crux move on a 3,000-foot-tall sheer rock wall without protective gear or Caldwell getting taken hostage in Kyrgyzstan, you’ll need to adjust your expectations a bit before you sit down to watch this film, because the two climbers now agree that the most dangerous part of this expedition was the approach.

“In a lot of ways this expedition was relatively safe. Biking on the highway the whole way was probably the scariest thing and the most dangerous thing we did,” says Honnold.

From Caldwell’s home in Colorado, it’s 2,600 miles to the Devil’s Thumb, and he envisioned the expedition as a conservation project, so he proposed making the already difficult expedition harder by cycling there on a pair of Specialized gravel bikes. That turned out to entail 50 days of pedalling, sailing and gruelling hiking across the West, which, depending on who you ask, was great training or a “total waste” of time and energy.

“For me, it was great because my climbing ability was so low after being injured for so long,” says Caldwell, who spent the last couple of years rehabbing a torn (and repeatedly re-ruptured) Achilles tendon. Just a year ago, he reported that he'd been unable to send the Heart Route in Yosemite with Honnold, but over the course of the approach, he started to feel like his old self again.

“As we were bike riding, I just got stronger and felt more robust, but my climbing ability had so far to go up at the point.”

“I didn’t recover the whole time"

Meanwhile, Honnold, who was coming off several years of climbing at the highest level, says he found the bike ride “depressing.”

“I kind of thought that we were going to be going through interior BC, like untravelled wilderness and the reality is that it’s all logged, there are trucks non-stop. It’s like heavy human impact.”

In retrospect, Caldwell admits that they didn’t plan the bike ride all that well, but that 2,600-mile bike ride shared between one friend who was severely out of shape and another at their physical peak turned out to be a great equalizer.

“I didn’t recover the whole time. I got worse and worse literally the whole trip, which was crazy because Tommy was doing great and he was thriving,” says Honnold.

By the end of the expedition, the pair just about met each other in the middle in terms of fitness and climbing ability and when they finally begin their 24-hour push, it’s all, well, pretty smooth.

"He just needs to pull hard on small holds all the time to feel right in the world"

There are no angst-ridden monologues about what happens if they fall and die during the climb like we were exposed to in Free Solo, even though touching scenes with family at the beginning remind us of what would be at stake if that were to happen. But for one quickly corrected detour and some windy conditions, there’s no exceptional circumstances that increase the risk level.

Caldwell leads the majority of the climbing – something Honnold says he was pretty happy about, because it meant he could stay in his “more comfortable” approach shoes – and at the last summit, the pair even have time to soak up the views and chat.

If all of this is sounding a little dull, trust me, it’s a pleasure to watch. Instead of wondering if the men are going to meet a grisly end, you can enjoy the quirky personalities of two climbers (mostly) in their element, and get an often-entertaining glimpse into the nature of their relationship, which is painted here by Ozturk as a Grumpy vs Happy dynamic.

We see Honnold face down with seasickness while Caldwell merrily takes the helm in choppy waters. Then there’s Caldwell cycling off up the trail after Honnold is crowded by fans who apparently have no idea they’re in the midst of not just one but two heroes. And Honnold looking unimpressed or doing pull-ups on a boat crossing while Caldwell enthusiastically watches whales jumping.

“I’m realizing he just needs to pull hard on small holds all the time to feel right in the world,” quips Caldwell.

“There’s incredible joy in the midst of adversity "

You do start to wonder if the pair is really cut out to be climbing partners, where trust and communication are as important as fitness and skill. But when I probe them on this, they insist that despite their opposing exteriors, they’re far more similar than they are different.

“I think that’s part of the reason that our climbing partnership has been so good over the years,” says Honnold, who describes them as “pretty interchangeable” on the wall.

“In general, we’re more similar to each other than any other climbers we could climb with.”

Both men likely have many more years of climbing in them and it’s even possible they’ll have more first ascents worth of documentation. But right now, they also have nothing left to prove. They’ve got four young children at home between the two of them. They’ve earned the right to just go and have a really fun expedition without raising anyone’s cortisol levels, and maybe all that’s left to tell is the story of their friendship.

“There’s incredible joy in the midst of adversity and Alex brings that out in a way that nobody else I’ve climbed with does," says Caldwell.

"We could be suffering and laughing at the same time, and that brings the magic."

The Devil's Climb premieres October 17 at 9 p.m. eastern on National Geographic and streams the next day on Disney+ and Hulu.

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When Tommy Caldwell finally completed the first free climb of the Dawn Wall in 2015, it wrote him into the history books as one of climbing's all-time greatest. He's often described as "superhuman" – but a recent return to El Capitan may be an indication that even the most legendary big wall climbers eventually return to earth.

On Tuesday, October 25, Caldwell posted on Instagram that he and Alex Honnold, of Free Solo fame, had spent three days on the Heart Route in Yosemite, which entails 31 pitches of 5.10 - 5.13 climbing including a nine foot down dyno move. 

Needless to say, Honnold sent the route, but Caldwell revealed that, despite setting the sub two-hour record on The Nose as a duo with Honnold just five years ago, he was unable to send this time.

"Alex is so impressive and fun (to) climb with up there. He pretty much hiked everything, while I struggled to keep up," he wrote, adding: "I was a bit sad to feel like I have slipped from my peak up there."

Then again, Caldwell also noted that he's still recovering from an injury (he ruptured his Achilles tendon last year, requiring surgery) so perhaps this is just a blip in an otherwise perfect 20-year career.

Either way, his supporters were quick to jump in and lend words of encouragement, with one commenter writing, "It's not always about sending but coming back to your loved ones after living a good life experience."

The dynamic climbing duo have recently made headlines by trading their climbing shoes for wheels and biking 2,000 miles from Colorado to Alaska, which Caldwell also revealed in the post has been documented for an upcoming special on NatGeo TV, news that's sure to delight climbing fans.

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