Adam Ondra is no stranger to challenges. In an esteemed climbing career, the Czech sensation has become the first to flash and onsight multiple outdoor climbs and won acclaim in the competition climbing world, with more than 20 IFSC World Cup gold medals.
But even he got a little nervous while scaling Lexicon E11 7a, one of the world's hardest trad climbing routes, admitting on Instagram: "I got scared, I tried hard, my heart was beating."
The 32-year-old flashed the daunting route in England's Lake District with the help of its creator, Neil Gresham, who established it in 2021 and acted as "a very responsible belay," as Ondra climbed.
The challenging route has an 8b+ sport-climbing rating and includes plenty of trad climbing features, including a potential 98ft (30m) fall from the crux headwall.
Ondra's successful attempt was just the sixth time anyone has climbed the route, after Steve McClure, Dave McLeod, Matt Wright, and James Pearson repeated Gresham's line.
"It was truly a special day and a moment in the UK," Ondra explained.
“I got scared, I tried hard, my heart was beating, but I made it to the final ledge without testing that massive whipper."
Flash climbing refers to a climber successfully sending a route on their first attempt without falling, usually with knowledge of, but no prior experience of the climb.
Ondra prepared by watching internet videos of previous climbs. On the day, Gresham rappelled down the route and "chalked it up," for Adam's ascent.
"Then, I rappelled down from the top approximately 8 meters (26ft) to the right of Lexicon along the route Atra and watched Neil explain to me how to place the gear in the break and the moves in the upper headwall of Lexicon," he explained.
"Then I climbed back up to the top ledge and warmed up on the finger board. I was lowered down to the crux of Sixpence E6, looking to the right and ignoring the view towards the holds of Lexicon.
“I started just above the break of Lexicon, doing the 3-meter (10ft) crux of Sixpence and stopping just before I could touch or look into the final slot hold of Lexicon.
After a few arm swings to warm up, Ondra speed-rapelled down the route while facing away from it so he couldn't get any views of the holds.
"After a short moment of concentration, I set off," said Ondra, who began climbing once he had reached the bottom.
Climbing can be a little confusing sometimes, with its own language of tricky terms and phrases. Need a little help? Check out our expert guide to climbing jargon.
You can also find our explanation of climbing ratings here.
- The best climbing shoes: get a grip both indoors and out
- The best climbing films: 10 great movies about incredible mountain adventures
