Back in 2024, Luke Tarrant from Bedford in the UK had taken a break from working as an investment banker to go on a trip of a lifetime, riding a motorbike through the Americas. However, he was left fighting for his life when, in May, he was involved in a crash in Columbia.
He had to have his leg amputated, and then contracted sepsis. Luckily he survived, and today is determined not to let his disability stand in his way. Just over one year on from the crash, Luke is now hoping to summit a 16,400ft (5,000m) never-before-been-climbed mountain in Kyrgyzstan.
He will be taking part in the remote expedition with adaptive mountaineer Ed Jackson. Ed is a former professional rugby union player and lifelong outdoor enthusiast. In 2017, when he was 28, he fractured multiple vertebrae in his spine and doctors warned him that he may never walk again.
Since then, Ed has defied the experts and returned to the mountains. He uses kit modified by Berghaus to help him climb and started the charity, Millimeters 2 Mountains, which supports individuals to overcome adversity through adventure.
In an Instagram post announcing the expedition, Luke said: "I've done tons of crazy things in my life but this is without doubt the most mental yet.
"[Ed] told me just after my crash that one day we'd climb a mountain together. I thought, 'alright mate, maybe a local hill in five years time'. But no, just half a year after I got out of the wheelchair and started learning to walk again, we're attempting a world first."
The expedition, named First Ascent, will kick off in mid-August and Bergaus says it intends to "rewrite the rules of who gets to explore, and prove that with the right mindset, innovation and support, anything is possible".
The project has these key aims:
- Access: Using customized kit, including gear from the Berghaus Adapts initiative, they hope to drive innovation in the outdoor industry to make mountaineering more inclusive for people with physical impairments.
- Education: The adventurers will share insights and unfiltered stories from the mountain to paint a picture of what it's like living with disability.
- Science: The team will be helping researchers study how disabilities affect individuals in different environments by tracking their biometrics.
- Legacy: Ed and Luke hope that their successful ascent will allow them to name the mountain, making mountaineering history and inspiring future generations.
In an Instagram post revealing how the idea of the expedition came about, Ed says:
"In three weeks I'm heading to Kyrgyzstan to attempt a true first ascent, a 5,000m giant that no human has ever stood on, one of the last unnamed peaks on Earth. Still wild, still completely untouched.
"Luke and I bonded over similar attitudes and a lust for adventure, so six months ago I asked him to come to K with me, but just to base camp. But, plans have changed. He's trained, he's transformed, to the point where I asked if he'd consider joining me for the summit push.
"The crazy part is a year ago he had two legs, and a month ago he'd never worn crampons."
The expedition will be broadcast in real time through satellite links and via social media. Ed and Luke will be fundraising for Millimetres 2 Mountains. Donations can be pledged at First Ascent: Ed & Luke take on a World-First climb.
- Take your own adventure to new heights with the best approach shoes
- Keep sure-footed on the summit push with the the best crampons
